Well this past weeks south shore swell was as good as it gets. Everyone is surfed out and ready to relax and enjoy the weekend. The swell arrived Tues afternoon and peaked around mid day on Wed. It was a swell to be remembered by many as the best in 20 years. Good size, great direction, and good crowds means perfection. You can see on the bottom right of this picture (wet sand) how high the waves rolled up on the beach. I surfed out at one of my favorite undisclosed spots with a ten other friends that I thought we were on a boat trip or something.
I was stoked to get some good waves and super lucky that Kirby Fukunaga got this shot of me on one of my waves. I saw him catch a bomb set and didn't come back out so I figure I'll catch up with him later when we go dive. But to my surprise he parked directly inside of the spot and pulled out his 400 mm canon camera and took this shot! Lucky me! Thanks Kirby for taking the shot!
Well now that the waves are small its time to get ready for "AHI FEVER"!
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