Was sorting some photos today and came across this sequence at one of my favorites rights. This day I remember like it was yesterday. So many surfers in the water I thought I was on the south shore of Oahu. You call this the obstacle course.
But this wave blows away any right in town. Even if its crowded you can still catch waves if you know where to sit. You hold your position and hope the surfers will move out of the way or get run over like a bull dozer.
Just set make the drop, set your line, and pull in! Only a surfer knows the feeling. Now I want to go surf again! South swell no. 2 should be on its way:)