Monday, September 24, 2018

On my mind

Got back home safely and heard from my friends of several shark attacks on the east side.   One was 16 inch wide bite from a tiger shark.  Lots of big sharks out where we surf so be careful.

Came home and had fish on my mind.  Hope to find a aku or two soon for some poke.  Miss my sashimi.

Sunday, September 23, 2018


Looking for shade on this hot and muggy day!  

Mahalo to all the crew for taking care of us!  We will miss you all!  Teremakasih!

Saturday, September 22, 2018

Surf Eat Sleep

Some fun waves continue…Indo perfection! Pic by Anton

Lamb roast going down!  Our chef Boy is amazing!  He made this lamb roast with pumpkin, beans, carrots.  So good!  Time to sleep!

Friday, September 21, 2018

Ceviche Time!

Another unridden wave goes by in the Mentawais.  If this was Hawaii there would be 100 guys out here!  Lucky we only had our crew.

Big Al Ah Nee got this nice Uhu and Chef Jim made ceviche for our pupu hour.  Thanks guys the buggah was ono!

Thursday, September 20, 2018

Hts on Fire!

One of my favorite waves has to be Ht's or Lances Right.  So perfect, hollow and fun!  When the conditions are right its on fire!  With only 3 guys out I had to paddle out and try and get a wave! I vividly remember catching this wave and pulling in, riding over the foam ball and getting the exit.  Mahalo Anton for the photo.  The sequence was amazing!

Herbie the Hawaiian Superman!

Meet Kalapana legend, Herbie Rivera!  This 59 year old is made of muscle and can clear the lineup anyday!  It was a pleasure sharing waves with him and so funny to hang around.

He got some nice waves and probably put more hours in the water than most of the group.  Here he is flying like superman!

The peanut gallery was always cheering on the hawaiians in the lineup!  Bintangs going down after morning session!

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

Who Wants it?

Pulling up to a perfect left with only your friends out is what it's all about!  There are so many types of waves in Indonesia and good swells all year round.  I think our surfers got their best waves all summer and with conditions like this everyone was very happy.  Who want's it?  Your turn! You will never know until you go! Pic by Anton