Got the report surf is firing! Big swell on the rise and the boys were on it. I see my friends suiting up so I go say hi.
Timmy Rezentes all set.
And long time friend Jon Taba. Jon charges and always pushed me to go for it. His Tabaism belief system is very impressive. No fear! He would charge big Waimea and pipe and even night dive solo.
Giant set came through and he went for it paying his dues and broke his board in two. Good to surf with Jon, Timmy, Wade, Rick, Ed, Randy and Marteen today.
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