Weather was perfect again today with light variables all day. Got my eyewitness surf report from Wade Tokoro and headed to our secret spot. Took out the gun and we scored again! Double overhead sets, thick slabs, big drops! Yesterday we also got an Eve session in town with overhead waves in the winter, double score!
Paddle is super far out and grounds is sharky, but just lift up ur feet and paddle.
Then waited for the window to open up today and got another fun session in town with a few guys out. It was so glassy you couldn't see the waves coming in. Now I got rash on my legs and rubber arms. Going to sleep good tonight.
No comments:
Post a Comment