Past few ocean experiences have had a lot of current lately. Last week went kayak diving and almost go sucked out to sea, and today I pulled up to the beach at Jockos to get wet and it was deja vu. There were lots of onlookers soaking up the sun and watching the new north shore swell building. Crowd doesn't look to bad so go I grab my 7'2" board and wax up.
Head down to the shore line and see this sign "Strong Current". I've seen it all the time the waves are big and so I walk right passed it, jump in, and paddle out. Water feels good, clean, cool, and as I get out I see everyone stroking for the channel, how come? I see one guy broken board paddling in.
The see another guy outside stroking inward toward shore. Then, I look up at my line ups and see the current is on! All the surfers stroking for the channel...Constant non-stop paddle required for todays session. I see a wave come in, and decide to take it so I don't get sucked out to sea.
Should I go back out? Yes! one more time around the merry go round and out to sea, paddle, paddle, paddle then get another good one without falling. A big set comes in, closes the channel and I see another broken board and the guy struggling to get in. These are those days you just need a few good ones to make your day. Thank God for the adrenline rush!
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