Woke up early checked the buoys and cams and swell was running late. Lots of hungry surfers anxious to get waves.
Wasn't feeling good past few days from a cold so decided to watch the Fiji pro day 1. Girls were ripping in some head high waves at cloudbreak.
3:17 pm I see the first real set start to roll in, a little drowsy from my medicine I decide now is the time. Pack my board and head to the beach with tissue in hand. After a couple overhead barrels I was all good and ready to come in. Crowd was mellow so stayed out a little longer than expected. Hopefully tomorrow be bigger and better!
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