Another perfect day in paradise! I woke up early today with no alarm clock and decided to go for a quick surf to get the day started. I haven't got to surf pipe recently so took out my bigger board and was the 10th guy in the line up. My eastside buds Wade Tokoro, Jon Taba, and Rick Shimabukuro was out and it felt like old times again. Jon would always be pushing me to charge when the lip was throwing over and I had to go or wouldn't hear the end of it.
Mike Stewart was out and 25 other guys but everyone was taking turns and was cool to get a few good ones. Now I remember how good this wave is and how heavy as well.
Backdoor was also working so it helped with the crowd factor. Guys were getting pitted and spitted out the barrel both ways. Buoys coming down for a day but back up tomorrow night. I need fish for New Year's Party so gotta go dive!
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