West winds continue today producing epic conditions on the east side. Everywhere else looks all buss except perfect offshore winds here. There are not too many secret spots on this island but there are a few good uncrowded spots to find.
Big waves up north so lots of wrap. Double overhead waves, barreling, offshore winds.
Waxed up my bigger board for the far paddle and getting in early. Saw my friend Marteen already out in the line up by himself so I kept him company. Waves were firing and some nice steep hollow waves.
Saw eastside board rider, Ed Kupahu out along with Rick, Reo and Wade who joined the fun later. Wade had injured him shoulder but doing the Bethany Hamilton one arm paddle into some big double ups and charging. It was funny to listen to the boys talking story about how lucky we are to have grown up surfing this side of the island and telling the others no pictures or facebook on these secret spots. There are no hassling for waves, no dropping in, no crowds with some of the best waves ridden. I'm sure everyone has their favorite secret spots to surf so everyone enjoy and have fun doing what you love!
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