Been wanting to surf some hollow waves since I got back from Taiwan and saw the forecast last week that today was the day. Pulled up early at backdoor and 3 guys were out! I quickly waxed up and was out there! Surfing Backdoor/Pipe you gotta focus and there is no room for error. There can be 30 guys out and not many conversations going on in the line up. Just pure focus and being in the right spot. I love it!
Camera guys all over the place. Cool to see mike Stewart, Nat Young, Aritz Arenburu, and some other pros in the line up. I caught my share of waves and came in early as the crowd started to fill in.
By 8 am I was driving home totally satisfied.
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