What a beautiful Aloha Friday! Went to bed early last night so was able to wake up early for a surf session. I knew the winds would be backing off and north shore was the spot to be. Passed by one of my favorite spots, VLAND. Saw the line of cars and wanted to ride my bigger board today so kept driving.
Pulled up at Pipeline and waves were looking fun. As I stood watching for 5 minutes, about 30-guys were in the line up with another 10 paddling out. Since I hate crowds, I decided to check out sunset.
Sunset was going off too! About 4-6 ft hawaiian scale and with only a dozen guys out, I waxed up and went out to grab a few. Not even 2 minutes after I reach the line up here comes a set! I look left, look right, nobody around so I got to go! Super fun waves, good vibe in the water, even got to see a friend Genki Horiguchi from Wakayama in the line up. He helped with the Ama-san show we did a few years ago. Who would imagine seeing someone halfway around the world on a perfect northshore day.
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